{"id":110192,"date":"2025-11-21T20:00:29","date_gmt":"2025-11-21T20:00:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/?p=110192"},"modified":"2025-11-21T20:12:54","modified_gmt":"2025-11-21T20:12:54","slug":"piolet-dor-winner-helias-millerioux-on-the-future-of-alpinism","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/piolet-dor-winner-helias-millerioux-on-the-future-of-alpinism\/","title":{"rendered":"Piolet D&#8217;Or Winner Helias Millerioux on the Future of Alpinism"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Recently, Helias Millerioux of France was invited to the Banff Mountain Film Festival to share his views about the future of alpinism. We spoke to him in an exclusive interview, largely about that topic, and came away impressed by his thoughtfulness.<\/p>\n<p>Millerioux won a Piolet d&#8217;Or in 2018 for an impressive 2,200m new route on the Nuptse massif. It was rated ED+, the hardest in the alpine classic graduation. He still climbs in the Himalaya and Karakoram every year, always pursuing high-difficulty climbs in alpine style.<\/p>\n<p>With this pure approach, of course, failure is much more common than success in mountaineering. He walked away without a summit, for example, on <a href=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/weather-thwarts-french-alpine-style-duo-in-pakistan\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Trivor<\/a> (Batura range, Karakoram) with Jannick Grazianni in 2024, and on the <a href=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/manaslu-alpine-style-french-trio-to-attempt-rare-west-side\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">West Face of Manaslu<\/a> with Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer in 2022.<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\"  data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DHG9Gq1tasM\/\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\"><div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DHG9Gq1tasM\/\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\"> <div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\"> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;\"><svg width=\"50px\" height=\"50px\" viewBox=\"0 0 60 60\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" stroke-width=\"1\" fill=\"none\" fill-rule=\"evenodd\"><g transform=\"translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)\" fill=\"#000000\"><g><path d=\"M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/div><div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\"> <div style=\" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\"><div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: auto;\"> <div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div><\/div><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/a><p style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DHG9Gq1tasM\/\" style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;\" target=\"_blank\">See this post on Instagram<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script>\n<h2>Fake revolution<\/h2>\n<p>Millerioux\u00a0defends a slow, gradual evolution in alpinism, in contrast with the high-publicity achievements seen on social media and large media outlets.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Changing things in alpinism takes time, and each generation of climbers puts a little stone on the top of their mountains,&#8221; he says. &#8220;But there are no revolutionary changes [through expeditions] that are based only on logistics.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>By &#8220;logistics,&#8221; he means helicopters, huge support teams, abundant oxygen, fixed ropes. Logistics-based achievements, he says, steal the chance of doing a &#8220;world first&#8221; by fair means and showing the wider public &#8212; which pays most attention to firsts &#8212; how it should be done. Skiing down the Hornbein Couloir or climbing winter K2 without supplementary oxygen would have had a much greater impact on future generations of mountaineers, he feels, without the huge support.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;In this modern world, everything is possible,&#8221; Millerioux said. &#8220;All feats can be achieved with the new technologies, gear, and logistics. We alpinists are not explorers anymore. However, we have a responsibility to the next generation for what we do in the mountains.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>He is concerned that wider audiences may think that an Everest ski descent must be done with supplementary oxygen, when it can be done without.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_110215\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-110215\" class=\"wp-image-110215 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Elias-kobalenko-01-700x525.jpg\" alt=\"Millerioux sits at an office in front of a computer, with an ExWeb's journalist on the screen. \" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Elias-kobalenko-01-700x525.jpg 700w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Elias-kobalenko-01-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Elias-kobalenko-01-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Elias-kobalenko-01-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Elias-kobalenko-01.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-110215\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Helias Millerioux during the interview. Photo: Jerry Kobalenko<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Always a mountain guide<\/h2>\n<p>As he pointed out, the problem with strictly following the values of alpine style and aiming for excellence is that the chances of success are much lower. Big sponsors want triumphs to publicize on Netflix documentaries.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;That is why I still earn my living as a mountain guide, guiding 100 days a year,&#8221; he noted.<\/p>\n<p>He says that he has some gear sponsorship, and the grants from some mountaineering associations may help pay for an expedition, but they don&#8217;t provide a living.<\/p>\n<p>When we asked him what he would do if money were no issue, Millerioux didn&#8217;t hesitate: He would keep climbing without either sponsors or social media, but he wouldn&#8217;t quit guiding.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;I love guiding, it&#8217;s been my dream since I was a child, and right now, I have the freedom to choose who I have as a client and what we do.&#8221;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_39568\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-39568\" class=\"wp-image-39568 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3-320x320.jpg 320w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231259\/Helias-3.jpg 1440w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-39568\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On Rakaposhi Southwest Ridge. Photo: Helias Millerioux<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>The next generation<\/h2>\n<p>We asked Millerioux, who is now 38, about the new generation of French climbers, including Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean, and also the young members of the High Mountain Military Group. Then there are the three 20-somethings who recently free-climbed la Directe de la Amitie on the North Face of the <a href=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/most-difficult-route-on-the-north-face-of-the-grandes-jorasses-finally-free-climbed\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Grandes Jorasses<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Is this a particularly strong generation?<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;I think the new generation of climbers is super strong because they do more rock climbing and they are better trained,&#8221; he replied. &#8220;But it&#8217;s happening everywhere, not only in France.&#8221;<\/p>\n<h2>Commitment vs. danger<\/h2>\n<p>We also asked him about <a href=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/piolet-dor-winners-on-risk-management\/\">risk management<\/a> and the line between brave and reckless.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Risk tolerance is a personal value that changes from climber to climber, and I am not here to judge anyone about it,&#8221; he replied. &#8220;But we have to differentiate between commitment and danger.&#8221;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_39306\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-39306\" class=\"wp-image-39306 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"A climber on a vertical seract at Diram Peak. \" width=\"700\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2-320x320.jpg 320w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231402\/Diram-2.jpg 1440w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-39306\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A member of the French team deals with steep, snowy terrain on Diram Peak. Photo: Helias Millerioux\/Facebook<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Commitment in climbing is similar to that in deep diving or polar expeditions: You go as far as you decide&#8230;Commitment is in the DNA of climbers and is part of the adventure. But danger is like deciding to pitch your tent under a looming serac and stay there for a week and see what happens.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<h2>The mess on the 8,000&#8217;ers<\/h2>\n<p>Then there&#8217;s what he saw on the 8,000&#8217;ers, especially with Nepalese guides and their clients.<\/p>\n<p>Millerioux and his team acclimatized on the normal route of Manaslu before launching an attempt to the West Face in the fall of 2022. He was shocked when he saw hundreds of people heading for the summit in clearly dangerous conditions.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;There was that avalanche above Camp 4 that swept away nearly a dozen people,&#8221; he recalled. &#8220;Hilaree Nelson died due to another slide, and there were 300 people on the mountain. None of them considered calling it quits. One day later, the local guides put a smile on their faces and led their clients up the mountain, perhaps to their deaths.&#8221;<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\"  data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CjzgwoMjim-\/\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\"><div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CjzgwoMjim-\/\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\"> <div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\"> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;\"><svg width=\"50px\" height=\"50px\" viewBox=\"0 0 60 60\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" stroke-width=\"1\" fill=\"none\" fill-rule=\"evenodd\"><g transform=\"translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)\" fill=\"#000000\"><g><path d=\"M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/div><div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\"> <div style=\" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\"><div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: auto;\"> <div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div><\/div><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/a><p style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CjzgwoMjim-\/\" style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;\" target=\"_blank\">See this post on Instagram<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script>\n<p>During acclimatization, the shockwave from an avalanche hit them, and they decided to descend to Base Camp. Yet everyone else continued up to Camp 3 the next day. Several other avalanches injured local guides later that week, Millerioux reports.<\/p>\n<h2>A &#8216;cheerful&#8217; experience<\/h2>\n<p>At the time, Millerioux posted an ironic remark about the situation on social media: &#8220;There&#8217;s something good about this mountain: When you die, you don&#8217;t die alone. Death is a collective act here. It can almost be a joyful and cheerful experience.&#8221;<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\"  data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CjzgwoMjim-\/\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\"><div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CjzgwoMjim-\/\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\"> <div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\"> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;\"><svg width=\"50px\" height=\"50px\" viewBox=\"0 0 60 60\" version=\"1.1\" xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" xmlns:xlink=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/xlink\"><g stroke=\"none\" stroke-width=\"1\" fill=\"none\" fill-rule=\"evenodd\"><g transform=\"translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)\" fill=\"#000000\"><g><path d=\"M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631\"><\/path><\/g><\/g><\/g><\/svg><\/div><div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\"> <div style=\" color:#3897f0; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\"><div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: auto;\"> <div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div><\/div><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/a><p style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/CjzgwoMjim-\/\" style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;\" target=\"_blank\">See this post on Instagram<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script>\n<p>Millerioux remembers how once, they tried to step out of the packed trail.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The moment we stepped out, we sank up to our waists in fresh, deep snow. If we had been a small team climbing alpine style, we would have been unable to reach the summit. People that season climbed Manaslu because they followed a road of packed snow.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>The 8,000&#8217;ers business has also increased the prices to the point of excluding teams with plans to try new routes or different sides of the mountain.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;I&#8217;d love to attempt a new route on an 8,000m peak again, but the permits, the logistics, everything around these peaks is too expensive. It&#8217;s easier for me to go on an expedition to Alaska.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>The problems include a lack of flexibility with climbing permits. There is no way to change the permit to a different peak if the first one isn&#8217;t in a proper condition. You can&#8217;t even switch routes on the same mountain. &#8220;Alpine style is about adaptability, and that is hardly possible without flexibility in the permits.&#8221;<\/p>\n<h2>More restrictions<\/h2>\n<p>Finally, Millerioux points to a new threat to alpinism in the future: geopolitics.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>I remember my mentors in mountaineering telling stories about their climbs in Tibet. Now these peaks are closed to foreigners. Even in the areas of Pakistan bordering with China, where the ethnic communities are the same on both sides of the border, and commerce was the norm between them for centuries, there are now prohibitions and even walls built in the middle of the mountains. Mountaineering is freedom, but freedom is more and more restricted in today&#8217;s world.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<div id=\"attachment_66780\" style=\"width: 570px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-66780\" class=\"wp-image-66780 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/19151840\/Helias-rain-560x700.jpg\" alt=\"Helias Millerioux in a green mountain setting, with an umbrella under the rain. \" width=\"560\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/19151840\/Helias-rain-560x700.jpg 560w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/19151840\/Helias-rain-240x300.jpg 240w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/19151840\/Helias-rain-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/19151840\/Helias-rain.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 560px) 100vw, 560px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-66780\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Helias Millerioux on the approach trek to the West Face of Manaslu. Photo: Helias Millerioux\/Facebook<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Setting the rules<\/h2>\n<p>Following that train of thought, Millerioux thinks it is necessary to clear up the definition of alpinism and to identify some general rules. To achieve that, he considers engaging the community in an open discussion about values and style.<\/p>\n<p>Here, sitting on the fence is not acceptable: &#8220;One must have an opinion and take sides,&#8221; he says. &#8220;We cannot focus on our climbs only and pretend to be blind to the dynamics occurring on peaks such as Everest and Manaslu.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>The remaining question is, who sets the rules?<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_39574\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-39574\" class=\"wp-image-39574 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2-320x320.jpg 320w, https:\/\/s3.amazonaws.com\/www.explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/23231254\/Helias-2.jpg 1440w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-39574\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On Diran Peak. Photo: Helias Millerioux\/Facebook<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With a pure alpinist&#8217;s approach, failure is common, but it&#8217;s important to set an example for both the public and future climbers, says Millerioux.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1806,"featured_media":110193,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"categories":[32],"coauthors":[135],"class_list":["post-110192","post","type-post","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpine-style"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Piolet D&#039;Or Winner Helias Millerioux on the Future of Alpinism &#187; Explorersweb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"With a pure alpinist&#039;s approach, failure is common, but it&#039;s important to set an example for both the public and future climbers, says Millerioux.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/piolet-dor-winner-helias-millerioux-on-the-future-of-alpinism\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Piolet D&#039;Or Winner Helias Millerioux on the Future of Alpinism &#187; 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