{"id":110981,"date":"2025-12-26T08:04:48","date_gmt":"2025-12-26T08:04:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/?p=110981"},"modified":"2025-12-25T23:26:21","modified_gmt":"2025-12-25T23:26:21","slug":"top-10-expeditions-of-2025-5-jannu-east","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/top-10-expeditions-of-2025-5-jannu-east\/","title":{"rendered":"Top 10 Expeditions of 2025 – #5: Vedrines and Jean on Jannu East"},"content":{"rendered":"

The North Face of Jannu is one of the largest and most formidable ice walls on Earth, and Benjamin Vedrines is one of the most outstanding alpinists of the new century. Combining the two could only result in an epic achievement, thanks also to Vedrines’ young climbing partner, fellow Frenchman Nicolas Jean.<\/p>\n

An American team did the main summit of 7,710m Jannu via the North Face in 2023, but Vedrines and Jean had an alternative goal: the unclimbed East summit (7,468m). In 2024, they launched their first attempt<\/a>, sharing the wall with Americans Mike Gardner and Sam Hennessey<\/a>, who were on their second and third attempts, respectively.<\/p>\n

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Vedrines, Billon and Jean bivouac on the North Face of Jannu in 2024. Photo: Benjamin Vedrines<\/p><\/div>\n

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Vedrines and Jean’s attempt ended when the third member of the 2024 team, Leo Billon, fell sick due to acclimatization problems. It ended worse for the two Americans: Gardner fell to his death<\/a> from a bivy ledge.<\/p>\n

The return<\/h2>\n

Vedrines left Jannu, promising he would return. So did Nicolas Jean, while Billon decided not to join this time. In the preceding months, Vedrines and Jean trained intensively at home in the Alps, including climbing and skiing nonstop the four faces of Mont Blanc<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Vedrines also made a record speed traverse that he called the Great Alpine Trilogy: a nonstop, human-powered traverse of the ridges of the Grandes Jorasses, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger. Climbing, paragliding, and cycling from one peak to the next, Verdrines finished in a stunning 39 hours.<\/p>\n

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Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean in the Mont Blanc massif. Photo: Benjamin Vedrines<\/p><\/div>\n

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Vedrines and Jean adapted as a team of two, although it meant carrying heavier backpacks and climbing less efficiently, since only two climbers must lead all the pitches. Three is the ideal partnership for these big walls.<\/p>\n

\u201cLuckily, Nicolas [Jean] and I have climbed extensively as a pair in the Alps, so we are used to working together,\u201d Vedrines said. \u201cBesides, I\u2019ve always liked to climb in a team of two, so this was quite natural.”<\/p>\n

The preparation<\/h2>\n

They, along with cameramen Thibaut Marot and Quentin Degrenne, landed in Nepa<\/a>l at the beginning of September. Vedrines and Jean then started a careful acclimatization plan to prepare for their alpine-style attempt on Jannu East. They took it easy at base camp and gradually gained altitude.<\/p>\n

\"Two

Vedrines and Jean acclimatize in the Kangchenjunga region, as the North Face of Jannu looms behind. Photo: @quentin_degrenelle<\/p><\/div>\n

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Their preparations included a first ascent of 6,808m Anidesh Chuli<\/a>, a beautiful snowy peak also known as the White Wave. After this, they waited patiently for the right weather window to begin. Vedrines planned<\/a> a fast, three-day ascent. They needed the right conditions on the wall, as well as stable weather. In the end, it took them four days.<\/p>\n

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