{"id":111107,"date":"2025-12-23T17:37:30","date_gmt":"2025-12-23T17:37:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/?p=111107"},"modified":"2025-12-23T17:37:30","modified_gmt":"2025-12-23T17:37:30","slug":"nepalis-bag-a-double-first-ascent-in-mustang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/nepalis-bag-a-double-first-ascent-in-mustang\/","title":{"rendered":"Nepalis Bag a Double First Ascent In Mustang"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>On December 21, a Nepali team did a double first ascent of two neighboring 6,000m peaks in the Upper Mustang region.<\/p>\n<p>Sherpa guides usually treat winter as a time to rest, travel, and spend time with their families. However, some also enjoy climbing for the fun of it and to hone their skills with alpine-style projects. After all, their country is still full of unclimbed peaks.<\/p>\n<p>Jenjen Lama, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, and Ashish Gurung summited Chhuama II (6,325m). They then followed the summit ridge to the top of neighboring Chhuama I (6,366m) two hours later. This marked the first ascent of both peaks.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The expedition followed a clean alpine approach, climbing via the southeast face of Chhuama II, traversing westward to Chhuama I, and descending via the south ridge of Chhuama I,&#8221; sponsor Seven Summit Treks reported.<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\"  data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DSjW2tPD-Xe\/?img_index=1\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\" style=\" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);\"><div style=\"padding:16px;\"> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DSjW2tPD-Xe\/?img_index=1\" style=\" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;\" target=\"_blank\"> <div style=\" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\"> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; 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font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div><\/div><div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\"><div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div> <div style=\"background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)\"><\/div><\/div><div style=\"margin-left: auto;\"> <div style=\" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div> <div style=\" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div><\/div><\/div> <div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\"> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div> <div style=\" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div><\/div><\/a><p style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DSjW2tPD-Xe\/?img_index=1\" style=\" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;\" target=\"_blank\">See this post on Instagram<\/a><\/p><\/div><\/blockquote><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script>\n<h2>Focus on alpine-style<\/h2>\n<p>&#8220;The original idea came from a guy who works with Seven Summit Treks [7ST], a member of the Nepal Mountain Academy who identified these peaks as unclimbed,&#8221; guide Pasang Rinzee Sherpa told ExplorersWeb. &#8220;We formed a team and got support from 7ST.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>They eventually decided to climb alpine-style and to traverse from Chhuama II to Chhuama I in a single push.<\/p>\n<p>Driving to the Korala border pass (4,660m), on the frontier between Nepal&#8217;s Mustang region and Tibet, they trekked toward the peak and set up base camp.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_111114\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-111114\" class=\"wp-image-111114 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-08-700x498.jpg\" alt=\"Two Nepalese climbers pitching a tent. \" width=\"700\" height=\"498\" srcset=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-08-700x498.jpg 700w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-08-300x213.jpg 300w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-08-768x546.jpg 768w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-08.jpg 1190w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-111114\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The team pitches a high camp on mixed ground. Photo: Pasang Rinzee Sherpa<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;On the next day, we started hiking toward 5,300m, where we set a high camp and spent the night&#8230; well, half the night, as we set off toward the summit very early,&#8221; Pasang Rinzee said.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_111115\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-111115\" class=\"wp-image-111115 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-01-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"A climber on granite rock. \" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-01-700x467.jpg 700w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-01-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-01-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-01-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-01-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-111115\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rocky sections on the first ascent of Chhuama II and Chhuama I. Photo: Pasang Rinzee Sherpa<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>Mainly a rock climb<\/h2>\n<p>Snow covered the base of the mountain and the first summit, but, unlike most of the peaks the Nepalis work on during the year, the second peak featured mostly bare granite.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_111110\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-111110\" class=\"wp-image-111110 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-03-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"Mostly dry peaks on a clear day. \" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-03-700x467.jpg 700w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-03-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-03-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-03-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-03-2048x1365.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-111110\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chhuama I from Chhuama II. Photo: Pasang Rinzee<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_111112\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-111112\" class=\"wp-image-111112 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-05-700x478.jpg\" alt=\"A snow covered summit from a rocky ridge. \" width=\"700\" height=\"478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-05-700x478.jpg 700w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-05-300x205.jpg 300w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-05-768x525.jpg 768w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/rinzee-05.jpg 1224w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-111112\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Snowy Chhuama II from Chhuama I. Photo: Pasang Rinzee<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Chhuama II could be suitable as a trekking peak, but Chhuama I is too tricky,&#8221; Pasang Rinzee said. &#8220;The approach is longer, and it has lots of loose rock.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>The unstable rock was one of the main obstacles the team found on the traverse and the second peak.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;You cannot actually stand on the top because of the unstable rock,&#8221; he said.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_111113\" style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-111113\" class=\"wp-image-111113 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-07--700x466.jpg\" alt=\"Three Sherpa climbers on a rocky summmit holding a Nepali flag.\" width=\"700\" height=\"466\" srcset=\"https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-07--700x466.jpg 700w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-07--300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-07--768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/explorersweb.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Rinzee-07-.jpg 1268w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-111113\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Summit picture on the crumbly summit of Chhuama I. Photo: Pasang Rinzee<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The summit views were also quite different from the sea of snowy peaks viewed from Nepal&#8217;s 8,000&#8217;ers. <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Upper_Mustang#:~:text=Upper%20Mustang%2C%20formerly%20known%20as,the%20Gandaki%20Province%20of%20Nepal.\">Upper Mustang<\/a> is a dry, desert-like area similar to the Tibetan plains to the north, with lower, drier peaks marking the border.<\/p>\n<p>By supporting this expedition, Seven Summit Treks aims to &#8220;develop future strategies for climbing virgin, uncharted mountains,&#8221; the expedition company wrote.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The three Nepali guides summited 6,325m Chhuama II, then followed the ridge to the top of neighboring 6,366m Chhuama I. It was the first ascent of both.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1806,"featured_media":111111,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"categories":[117,63],"coauthors":[135],"class_list":["post-111107","post","type-post","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-first-ascents","category-nepal"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Nepalis Bag a Double First Ascent In Mustang &#187; Explorersweb<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The three Nepali guides summited 6,325m Chhuama II, then followed the ridge to the top of neighboring 6,366m Chhuama I. 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